English Teacher in Sudan
Khartoum 2008
I spent nearly 6 months in Khartoum, Sudan, as an EFL teacher during 2008. Sudan is not your typical tourist destination. Most of the expat community either work for NGO's or for oil companies. There are rarely tourists who visit Sudan, due to safety considerations. This does not detach from the unique experience it offers. It is not a place where one can freely walk and happily snap away pictures. I was arrested twice for what they thought 'spying' activities. I had to be very careful in taking pictures, most while in a moving car, others by trying to be inconspicuous while walking......no time for setting up a tripod and take still life photos. They were paranoid in Khartoum and feared that any photo could end up in the hands of rebels to gain strategic access to the city.
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Sidewalk tea 'shop' - Downtown Khartoum. It costs 1 SDG for a tot shot of black tea extremely high in sugar. |
About Sudan
Sudan (Arabic: السودان Al-Sudan) is the third largest country in Africa and sixteenth largest in the world, bordering Egypt, Eritrea, Central African Republic, Chad, Ethiopia, Libya, and South Sudan. Sudan is afflicted by civil wars which have been raging, on and off, for more than 40 years. When the colonial map-makers divided up Africa, they included in Sudan the predominantly Muslim people of the north (including Nubians), who share much of their history and culture with Egyptians and Arabs, and the largely Christian and Animist Nilotic and Bantu people of the south, who have more in common with the rest of sub-Saharan Africa than with their northern neighbours (Wikitravel).
About Khartoum
Khartoum (Arabic: Al-Khartum) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue Nile and White Nile Rivers merge. The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities (Khartoum, Khartoum North or Bahri, and Omdurman) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms (Wikipedia). The Three Towns—Khartoum, Omdurman, and Khartoum North—together comprise the political, commercial, and administrative center for Sudan. Located where the Blue Nile and White Nile join to flow north toward Egypt, the capital city is the largest urban complex in the country. Khartoum, the political capital, means "elephant trunk" in Arabic (encyclopedia.com).
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Yellow taxi in downtown Khartoum during a haboob (sandstorm) |
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Delivery truck, Khartoum |
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Street scenery in Buri, the neighborhood where I lived |
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Bicycle repair 'shop' on the sidewalk, Khartoum |
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A vendor selling sweets and nuts in a very poor part of Khartoum |
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Fruit & veg stall |
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Sudanese boys near my house playing with car tires, a very African child play activity |
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South Sudanese boy, probably a refugee, near my villa |
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Bookshop, downtown Khartoum |
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Tea lady on the sidewalk serving very sweet tea....more sugar than tea |
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Sidewalk tea shop - Downtown Khartoum |
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Small neighborhood supermarket in Khartoum |
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Water stop for the traveler. Have not seen anything like it anywhere else |
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Approaching sandstorm |
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Teenagers out on a joyride, Buri, Khartoum |
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street vendor |
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Sidewalk shops |
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Donkey car - Buri |
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Chicken shwarma stand on the sidewalk - was my staple food |
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The Syrian restaurant had the best schwarmas |
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The fruit and veg shop I frequented in Buri |
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Outdoor restaurant - Khartoum |
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Sudanese women |
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Khartoum roads |
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Take away restaurant |
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Home accessories shop......everything plastic! |
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Scene in a supermarket |
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Colorful street scene |
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Furniture shop display on the sidewalk |
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Hanging out to dry....neighborhood scenery |
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View of a neighborhood from the house of a Sudanese man who gave me a lift and invited me to his house |
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Livestock for sale at the side of one of the main roads in Khartoum |
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Sudanese boy in one of the poorer areas near Buri posing for me |
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Sami, my driver - Downtown Khartoum |
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Sandra exiting a shop in Buri |
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Donkey car transport |
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Posing with locals on one of my walks - Bahri, Khartoum |
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