Showing posts with label Riyadh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Riyadh. Show all posts

Friday, 26 May 2017

Teaching English in Al Quwayiyah, KSA

Review of our Saudi experience 

Saudi Arabia 2015


Information sheet for teachers who want to live and work in Al Quwayiyah


Employees, past and current, serves as the best references, publicity (positive or negative) or advertisement for a company that has employed them or that currently employs them. It is that time of the year again when recruitment is taking place for the August/September start of the Academic year. I have posted a video of Al Quwayiyah on YouTube, which is basically a PPT slideshow with pics, comments, and music. Many potential employees have asked me to elaborate on the video as this was the only resource they could find. After the third inquiry, I have decided to basically paraphrase my responses to them in this blog about our experience in Al Quwayiyah, KSA.

Al Quwayiyah souq

Background


In 2015 we were part of the initial pioneering team to teach at a vocational college in Al Quwayiyah, Saudi Arabia. The town is about two hours’ drive from Riyadh city, in the moon landscape desert area of Riyadh province, a town that has seen foreigners for the first time to settle in their dusty outback Bedouin abode. My wife and I arrived as part of the second wave of teachers after 4 months since the inception of the project. We only stayed for 6 months. Like they say in the introduction of the TV show Law and Order: “These are their stories”. In fact, it’s just a brief review of what we experienced two years ago. I cannot speak for the present situation. Some of the issues may have been addressed in the meantime. I hope this can be a resource for potential teachers who would like to teach there.

I would like to list all the responses I gave to specific questions asked of me. I think from the answer the question would be obvious so I won’t repeat the questions:

At the front gate of the Al Quwayiyah male college campus during a sandstorm

ESG Saudi Arabia (Interserve) & the working environment


  • During our stay ESG ran the project, later on however, Interserve acquired ESG and it brought about many changes, some positive.
  • Upon our arrival at 11 pm at night, we were not shown to our chalet, as was promised and negotiated during our interview, but were put up in a room, with no en-suite bathroom. It was a shared bathroom that residents (colleagues) in the house had to share. We had to be up at 6 the next morning to start our new jobs. No induction, no time to adjust, we just had to fall into things immediately. Our case was not an isolated one. Another couple arrived and had to sleep on couches in the living room of one of the villas. There was no-one to welcome them or show them to their accommodation. They had to start their first day of work a couple of hours later. 
  • We left more than a year ago, and according to my knowledge has the number of teachers dwindled due the decreasing amount of students at both colleges in Al Quwayiyah. Esg Saudi Arabia has other colleges in Damam and elsewhere. 
  • The turnover rate for teachers was quite high....about 80% and very few last more than a year. The ESG philosophy is not Saudi culture friendly. ESG emphasizes attendance due to an agreement with the Saudi government that they only receive grants for students with an 80% attendance record. This puts a lot of pressure on teachers to try and keep students in class at all costs even ‘tweaking’ attendance registers. The female college had fewer issues with regards to attendance than the male college. Females see education as a growth opportunity, so they are super motivated as opposed to the males who are generally unmotivated. 
  • The Saudi culture is focused on friendship and hospitality and the way of reaching them is to respond to it by prioritizing relationship building first. There is a constant clash between westernised esg goals and student needs, within the Saudi cultural setting. 
  • Enrolment dwindled because the Westernized system was not met with enthusiasm by the Saudi students. The Bedouin culture is relaxed, it’s about relationships more than anything else. TIS...This is Saudi. You can’t or won’t change it. Adapt or leave. Interserve and ESG wanted to impose the British system of education, of goals and results and attendance. Students in Saudi cannot be swayed. If they want to pray at 12 noon, they will go irrespective whether they have a lesson or not. Therefore, the teacher is in a no-win situation, being pressured into getting students to attend, and getting blamed if they are not.
  • The students are wonderful. Saudi's are very hospitable and friendly. Win them over by respecting their culture and they will do anything for you.
  • I cannot say the same for most of the expat teachers. We experienced a lot of backstabbing and aggressive and self-serving behaviour from some of these expats. Remote sites that pay much attract weird and selfish types. 
  • When we were there we were some of the first teachers, and the project was still finding its feet. Needless to say that it was a hardship posting. I have worked in countries like Somalia and Sudan, but this was the most difficult, due to a very unfriendly and competitive colleagial environment. Instead of standing together and be friends in such a tough environment, there was a lot of back stabbing, hostility and competitiveness, the worst I have ever experienced.
  • We had to go through a lot of birth pains with and because of the company. The pay is good and we received our salaries on time, and were never short changed.
  • There was a lot of frustration with visas and distrust for HR. I hear that it has improved. We were employed on Business visas whilst they were attempting to get us Iqamas. They never succeeded. That is a whole different story. They made visa runs to Bahrain with our passports every month just to get things going. Lots of under hand dealings to keep us legal. It has probably become more organized and you won’t have to be exposed to that.
  • We used 'English first' text books, but had to supplement a lot with online resources. We were observed almost every month by either the principal or British inspectors and had to follow the strict lesson plan structure prescribed.
  • Ultimately it was not the culture that pushed us out, but an organisational culture. If you think you can handle it, I guess you should. If not, stay away.


Central Alquwayiyah

Saudi culture/religion & Al Quwayiyah


  • Al Quwayiyah is very remote and the Al Quwayiyah College staff the only expats in town.
  • The living arrangements are quite challenging. There are 3 compounds, the main compound consists of a big villa, mainly occupied by single males and chalets for single female teachers....on the same grounds, but separated by a gate. Every single male teacher had his own bedroom, but very few had en suite bathrooms. They usually had to share these. The main villa housed a couple of married couples. All the residents had to share a couple of communal kitchens, which created many blow outs and conflict situations. They built chalets for the single females on the same property. Whilst we were waiting for our villa to be built, we stayed in one of these. It was basically a one bedroom apartment with a very small living space outside that of the bedroom itself.
  • The second compound a villa with only single females and the third compound for the married couples. The compound for the married couples consists of 8 large apartments with their own private gardens. 
  • Saudi women are not allowed to go out on their own. They must either be chaperoned by other females in a group setting or by their husband. 
  • Western women don't have that restriction, BUT it is highly advisable that a woman do move in a group or with her husband. Just safer for everyone. 
  • Respect for the Arab/Saudi/Muslim culture is essential. Western women will have to wear an Abaya when you go out, whether in Al Quwayiyah or anywhere else in Saudi. Riyadh has religious police that will do something about it if you don't. The headscarf and hijab are not compulsory for western women, but it is good to cover as much of your hair. Blonde hair attracts attention.
  • You are to buy basic amenities and groceries in Al Quwayiyah, but Riyadh two hours away is the place if you want malls, clothing, imported western goods, a decent meal, etc. Riyadh has it all and ESG has a weekly bus to Riyadh for shopping. 
  • There won’t be much for small children in Al Quwayiya. They have corniche type parks where families go and walk and family restaurants where families can go. All the married expat teaching couples in Al Quwayiyah had no children with them. 
  • As a Christian I found it extremely challenging, not so much the culture and religion, but as stated earlier from colleagues. Remember that you live with these people on the same compound, you work with them and share even the same bus every day. If there are issues they are amplified.
  • The same bus used for Al Q excursions and trips are used for the Riyadh shopping expeditions. In my time, due to internal politics, and mostly a self-centred and self-absorbed bunch, an atmosphere existed on the bus. Eventually, we just got our own taxi driver to drive us to Riyadh and back. It was worth the 600 SAR expense for peace of mind.
  • Al Khobar is the better option, it's near Dammam and the Bahrain border, good for sanity breaks.

Main ESG teacher compound in Al Quwayiyah

To view a photo exposè of our stay in Al Quwayiyah


Saturday, 27 June 2015

Teaching English in Saudi Arabia

Working & living in rural Al Quwayiyah (2015) 


Salim & Saeed (Both from UK) - Streams in the desert - Near Al Quwayiyah, KSA

Our financial situation in South Africa forced us to a certain extent to accept teaching positions in Saudi Arabia. We had to live on a single income in South Africa, and was barely making ends meet. We were in debts and wanted to get out of it. Previous colleagues of ours who worked with us in Oman told us of a new Educational project in Saudi Arabia, with which they got involved and told us that they were looking for more teachers. I was lecturing law in South Africa, but Pearson was paying so little that we could not even afford to rent an apartment on our own, and still lived with my parents in law. Saudi was a good opportunity to pay off all our debts and maybe even buy property when we return after the completion of the two year contract we signed. Our plan to stay for 2 years did not work out as we were faced with difficulties beyond our control. Our working and living arrangements in Al Quwayiyah was extremely challenging, and we lasted only 6 months. We taught ESL at vocational colleges in Al Quwayiyah. Education in Saudi is not co-ed, so I taught at the male college, and my wife at the female college on separate campuses about 2 km apart. We were not the only ones, the turn-over rate for teachers was 80%. To read more about our experience in Al Quwayiyah from a professional standpoint please click here.

To say that Saudi Arabia is an extreme culture to work and live in is probably the understatement of the year, especially as a Christian. We faced opposition not so much from the Saudi culture or people, but more so from our colleagues, with whom we had to live and work with 24/7. The culture of the company that employed us did not make things easier. At least we managed to pay off all our debts upon our return and have a honeymoon, we never really had, in Mauritius. I have worked in challenging places like Sudan and Somalia before, but this was by far my biggest challenge. There are however good experiences and memories that we can take away with us. To have worked in a rural dusty Bedouin town gave us a unique and privileged view of the Saudi way of life, culture and heart. We were overwhelmed by the love and acceptance from the Saudi people with their extremely hospitable and giving hearts. In that respect we walk away with fond memories.

The photo expose will tell the story of our time in Saudi in visible images. One cannot get a tourist visa for Saudi, so people who gain access are those who work in Saudi. There are many expats in Riyadh and other bigger cities, but very few get to set foot where we got to, so the photos reveal 'uncharted' territory. 


Ansu on Al Quwayiyah hill - Highway to Riyadh in the background

About Saudi Arabia


Saudi Arabia, officially known as the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA), is an Arab sovereign state in Western Asia constituting the bulk of the Arabian Peninsula. With a land area of approximately 2,150,000 km2, Saudi Arabia is geographically the fifth-largest state in Asia and second-largest state in the Arab world after Algeria. Saudi Arabia is bordered by Jordan and Iraq to the north, Kuwait to the northeast, Qatar, Bahrain and the United Arab Emirates to the east, Oman to the southeast and Yemen to the south. It is the only nation with both a Red Sea coast and a Persian Gulf coast. Most of its terrain consists of arid desert and mountains.

The area of modern-day Saudi Arabia formerly consisted of four distinct regions: Hejaz, Najd and parts of Eastern Arabia (Al-Ahsa) and Southern Arabia ('Asir). The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was founded in 1932 by Ibn Saud. He united the four regions into a single state through a series of conquests beginning in 1902 with the capture of Riyadh, the ancestral home of his family, the House of Saud. Saudi Arabia has since been an absolute monarchy, effectively a hereditary dictatorship governed along Islamic lines. The ultra-conservative Wahhabi religious movement within Sunni Islam has been called "the predominant feature of Saudi culture", with its global spread largely financed by the oil and gas trade (Wikipedia).


Souq - Al Quwayiyah

About Al Quwayiyah

Al-Quway’iyah or Al Gwei'iyyah is a small town in Riyadh Province, Saudi Arabia. It is located 175 kilometres by road southwest of Riyadh. As of the 2004 census it had a population of 18,275 people (Wikipedia).


Teaching at the Al Quwayiyah Vocational College


Campus


Al Quwayiyah male college campus

Al Quwayiyah male college campus

Al Quwayiyah male college campus - Basketball court

Al Quwayiyah male college campus - soccer field

Al Quwayiyah male college campus - Main entrance gate

Al Quwayiyah male college campus

Al Quwayiyah male college campus

Al Quwayiyah male college campus - Foundation year teaching block

Turki, one of my students

ESG hallway slogan

ESG hallway slogan

My desk in my classroom

Students


Students

Mohamed

Class in session

Class in session

With Satam and Jeashaan

Turki

Salim with students

Salim encouraging the team before a match

Class activity

Taking a break

Nasr - students brought tea, coffee and snacks every day....lots of sugar

Dates....regular snack

Choccies

Nasr handing Ali his coffee

Satam & Mohamed

Turki with his camel - He sent me the photo

Brothers - Yusuf and Satam

Socials with students


At the winter sunset college BBQ

BBQ picnic - Saudi style

Mustaffa

Snack time

Group selfie

Selfie

Nasr

Saeed the IT guy taking pics

Having fun

Saudi treats until BBQ is ready

Bonfire

Enjoying the view

BBQ time

Bonfire & BBQ

BBQ

Dinner with students during a social held at college

Yusuf & Satam at a social

My students rented this 'holiday' house for an evening and invited Salim and I for the fun

Yusuf & Satam

Living in Al Quwayiyah


Our home


Road that passes the main compound on the left

Recreational area - Main compound

Ansu - First day of work

Main compound - Single female 'chalets'

Ansu and I had a chalet here until we could move into our villa

Single female 'chalets' - Fake lawn

Ansu at work - in our chalet

Our mini kitchen

Our Bedroom

Studying in the common area of the main house

Married couples compound where we had our villa, on the right

Our villa & garden....with real grass

Swimming pool area

Inside our villa - Ansu hard at work

Ansu playing housewife

Desert area across from our compound where I often went for solitary walks

Desert plant

Solitary tree

Desert sunset

The town


Al Quwayiyah town square ..... mild 38 degrees Celsius

Central downtown Al Quwayiyah

Street scenery - downtown Al Quwayiyah

Fresh produce Souq entrance

Ansu on her way to the blue 'Drive-Thru' ATM

'Drive-Thru' ATM......only in Saudi

Fresh produce Souq

Fresh produce Souq - Fruit and veg shop we frequented

Dates vendor - Fresh produce Souq

Syrian restaurant - Al Quwayiyah

Main Road - Al Quwayiyah

Main Road - Al Quwayiyah

Road - Al Quwayiyah

Road - Al Quwayiyah

Al Quwayiyah town

Colorful truck - Fuel station, Al Quwayiyah

Saeed enjoying his curry dish  - Truck stop restaurant, Al Quwayiyah

Chicken & rice dish - Truck stop restaurant, Al Quwayiyah

Truck stop restaurant, Al Quwayiyah

Truck stop restaurant, Al Quwayiyah

Our waiter

Yemeni restaurant we frequented for their whole rotisserie BBQ chicken

Rotisserie BBQ chicken

Ansu on a bench outside the plastic shop - Al Quwayiyah

Main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Street scenery - main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Materials for sale at the main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Yemeni perfume shop 
Main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Street food - Main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Sunset sky - main souq in central Al Quwayiyah

Farmer's truck - Our neighborhood, Al Quwayiyah

Villa wall - Our neighborhood, Al Quwayiyah

Laborer's room - Our neighborhood, Al Quwayiyah

Restaurant Salim and I ate at once - Al Quwayiyah

Our meal

View of Al Quwayiyah from a nearby hill

View of Al Quwayiyah from a nearby hill

Ansu on a hill - View of Al Quwayiyah

View of Riyadh highway

Engaging with the locals


A Community organization invited all the teachers on an authentic cultural trip and event. They took us to an old school to explain the heritage and history of Al Quwayiyah. In the late afternoon and evening, they showed us true Bedouin hospitality at a camp ground where we were treated with horse riding, Falconry, authentic BBQ dishes and activities around the camp fire. They then concluded the evening with a ceremony where they awarded us various gifts.

Ansu and our company bus at a site they showed us - Al Quwayiyah

An old school that has been restored

View of the Al Quwayiyah hill - taken from an old school that has been restored

With Salim and Saeed at the cultural event

falconry

Bedouin camp

Horse riding

Gift ceremony


'Streams of water in the desert'


Dam near Al Quwayiyah

Stream in the desert after a rain shower 

Stream in the desert after a rain shower 

Dam wall

Dam wall

Stream in the desert after a rain shower 

Saudi's see this as an event - Picnic goers are everywhere 

Picnic with Salim and Saeed

Stream in the desert after a rain shower 

Enjoying the cool water

Late afternoon with Salim and Abdul-Aziz

Late afternoon with Salim and Abdul-Aziz

While we were exploring our neighbourhood,
locals stopped and gave us snacks.
They then propped their baby into Ansu's arms
and took a photo shoot

Trips to Riyadh


About Riyadh


Riyadh is the capital and most populous city of Saudi Arabia. It is also the capital of Riyadh Province and belongs to the historical regions of Najd and Al-Yamama. It is situated in the center of the Arabian Peninsula on a large plateau and home to more than six million people. The city is divided into 15 municipal districts, managed by Riyadh Municipality headed by the mayor of Riyadh, and the Riyadh Development Authority, chaired by the governor of Riyadh Province, Faisal bin Bandar Al Saud. It has been designated a global city (Wikipedia).


The road outside our villa compound that marks the start of our journey to Riyadh


Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

On the ESG bus to Riyadh for a weekend away

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway scenery

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway - Near Riyadh

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway - Rocky outcrop

Main road entering Riyadh from Al Quwayiyah

Riyadh

Riyadh


Staying at Seder Village Motel


Once a month we had a company sponsored weekend at the Seder Village Motel, which I refer to as a sanity break from the challenges in Al Quwayiyah. The stay included a buffet brunch every day.

Seder Village Motel is located in Seder Village, a western style compound in Riyadh. The village has three outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, basketball courts, and a gym. It also has a small shopping center that one can buy the basics and of course a lovely big dining hall for buffets and a ’la carte. The Motel consists of single rooms and 2 bedroom suites, each with a fully equipped kitchen and direct access to the motel's swimming pool that overlooks the lounge. The premises are secured by the National Guard and the Seder Village security team. 

Entrance to motel

View of village from Motel

View of village from Motel - The start of a relaxing weekend

Motel

Seder village walk

Seder village recreation office

A Western house - Seder Village

There is also a salon .... with a foot spa

Seder village dining room

Seder village scenery on a rainy day

Seder village scenery on a rainy day

Seder village scenery on a rainy day - main swimming pool, taken from Dining room

Seder village scenery on a rainy day

Main swimming pool


Riyadh malls


Mall entrance

Cell phone booth - mall in Riyadh

Mall interior - Riyadh

Applebee's dish - Riyadh

Milkshakes - Riyadh

Ansu at Shakeaway - Riyadh

High tea at the Ritz Carlton hotel



Ritz Carlton access road and hotel - Riyadh

Ansu at the Ritz Carlton hotel fountains - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel fountains - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel  - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel  - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel fountains - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel lobby ceiling - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel courtyard where we had high tea - Riyadh

Our waiter

High tea at the Ritz Carlton hotel, Riyadh

In the hotel lobby

Our high tea snacks and treats

Ritz Carlton hotel entrance - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel entrance - Riyadh

Ansu in front of the Ritz Carlton hotel entrance - Riyadh

Environmental protection & awareness project: Community outreach in rural Saudi Arabia




'Tire tree forest'


Giving a lesson on littering and recycling

Shane the PBL teacher teaching students how to make a windbreak and paraffin stove 
out of recycled aluminium cans

The final product

Teaching students to make posters on MS Word

Abdul Aziz busy making a poster

Desert clean-up & Restoration project

Desert clean-up & Restoration project

Nasr picking up litter

Saad, Satam & Yusuf

Helping

Picnic afterwards

Later Pizza....

We were sent to Bahrain on a visa run. We did not manage to get visas and after 11 days in Bahrain had to fly back to South Africa, having to leave most of our stuff in Saudi behind. Upon our return to South Africa, we decided not to return to Saudi.