Tuesday, 10 November 2009

Teaching English in rural Oman

Living & teaching in Ibri 


Oman 2008 – 2009


In September of 2008, after nearly 6 months working in Sudan, I decided on a change of scenery. I got an English teaching post at the Ibri College of Applied Sciences in Oman through the Council for British teachers. Shortly after my arrival, 6 of us who were transferred to Ibri, a town about 3 hours’ drive from Muscat. It was a hardship posting. There are no malls or pools in Ibri, and not much to do except drive around and explore. It takes about a day, then there is not much else or different in the town itself. A rental car was thus essential in order to be mobile and independent. 

Weekends we either went to Muscat, Sohar or Nizwa where there were swimming pools and where one could get Western groceries. CfBT rented an apartment block and villas for the newcomers. Four of us had apartments in a block of flats. It was neat, clean and quite large, and of course fully air-conditioned, essential for survival in the Middle East. Ansu, my wife to be, came a month later from South Africa to join me. We got engaged on a hill outside a village called Dhank

In December we went back to SA for a couple of weeks to get married. Upon our return, we stayed 8 more months to complete my contract. We got along well with the other teachers and made regular trips with others in Oman and to Dubai. 

At the Ibri fort ruins overlooking a wadi

About Oman


Oman, officially the Sultanate of Oman, is an Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Yemen to the southwest, and shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan. The coast is formed by the Arabian Sea on the southeast and the Gulf of Oman on the northeast. The Madha and Musandam exclaves are surrounded by the UAE on their land borders, with the Strait of Hormuz (which it shares with Iran) and the Gulf of Oman forming Musandam's coastal boundaries.

From the late 17th century, the Omani Sultanate was a powerful empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for influence in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. At its peak in the 19th century, Omani influence or control extended across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Zanzibar (today part of Tanzania, also former capital). As its power declined in the 20th century, the sultanate came under the influence of the United Kingdom. Historically, Muscat was the principal trading port of the Persian Gulf region. Muscat was also among the most important trading ports of the Indian Ocean. Oman is an absolute monarchy. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has been the hereditary leader of the country since 1970. Sultan Qaboos is the longest-serving current ruler in the Middle East, and sixth-longest current reigning monarch in the world.

Oman has modest oil reserves, ranking 25th globally. Nevertheless, in 2010 the UNDP ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development during the preceding 40 years. A significant portion of its economy is tourism and trade of fish, dates, and certain agricultural produce. This sets it apart from its neighbors’ solely oil-dependent economies. Oman is categorized as a high-income economy (Wikipedia).

The older section of Ibri

About Ibri


Ibri is a city in the region Az Zahirah, in northwest Oman. The Wilayat of Ibri is distinguished by its archaeological landmarks including forts, castles, and towers. In 1979 the largest metal hoard in the ancient Near East came to light in Ibri/Selme. Also, there are the remains of the town of Bat, which is the second archaeological site to be classified by UNESCO on the list of world heritage and culture sites, after the Bahla Fort in the A’Dakhliya district. 

Ibri is 2 hours distance from Al Ain. It is located at a distance of 135 miles (217 km) from the capital Muscat. Weather in Ibri is usually hot and dry, with temperature in summers ranging from 32 to 52 °C. From December to February the weather is relatively cooler, with temperatures ranging from 10 to 20 °C. Historically, Ibri was known for its market and for fruit. There are 2 colleges in Ibri: the Ibri College of Technology and the College of Applied Sciences (Wikipedia).

Our home


Our Apartment block - We stayed in the top left quarter

Relaxing at home

Ansu, my wife, in the kitchen preparing a meal

Dinner

The Fridge

Eating Dinner

Ansu on the PC staying in touch with family

Our living room

Jet-lagged - Ansu's first day in Ibri

The spare room

View from our apartment block roof. Sometimes I tanned on the roof, we had picnics, 
Ansu had her birthday party here, ...... or just watching the sunset.

On the roof of the apartment block enjoying the view at sunset

View of Ibri to Nizwa road below taken from our roof

View of the Road between Nizwa and Ibri - taken towards the exit of Ibri towards Nizwa
It was taken during the development of a sandstorm. Later there was zero visibility.

Our living room

Front gate of our apartment complex from the inside

My workplace: The Ibri COAS


The students


One of my male Omani classes whom I taught ESL

With Marwan and Waleed, two of my students

Happy campers

With  Heston Spence, a colleague from the UK

Some of my students

Big Waleed - Just a gentle guy

Maria, a colleague from India


The campus grounds


Campus grounds - One of the only green lawns you will find in the whole of Ibri

Campus grounds - Male Omani students

Taking a break outside

Teaching block

Resting spot

Resource Centre

Arabic class for the teachers

My office

Office block hallway

Teaching block entrance - teachers returning after lunch

The covered pathway between buildings to protect students from the sun

Blair (Aus), my office mate

Exploring & Discovering Ibri


Ibri hill


Bangladeshi laborers working a piece of land at the foot of Ibri hill

A piece of agricultural land at the foot of Ibri hill

Climbing Ibri hill for exercise

Ansu on Ibri hill - we climbed this hill regularly for exercise


The playground at the top of Ibri hill


The playground at top of Ibri hill


The view from Ibri hill - Below the Ibri-Nizwa road


Walking in our neighborhood


Steve at his car just outside the apartment block gate

Indian Laundry shop next to our apartment block

Not my color.....

Typical scenery in Ibri - At Bank of Muscat near our apartment

Goat on an Omani truck....probably on his way either to be sold or to be eaten

Dates in season
  
The main road between Ibri and Nizwa - As you enter Ibri, about 300 m from our apartment

 Souqs

Fresh produce souq


Fresh fish

Fish galore

Fruit and veg

Main souq


Fort next to the souq

Omani honey - Quite expensive at 20 OR a bottle

Halawa, an Omani sweet/pudding - All high in sugar

Fabrics galore ....usually from India & Pakistan


Souq alley


Ibri fort ruins & wadi below


Ansu - en route to the fort ruins

En route to the ruins

Ibri fort ruins

Fran and her husband at the ruins looking down at the wadi below

Fort ruins. It has since been restored, but in 2008 it was still in ruins

Ansu - Ibri fort ruins

Bridge across the wadi

Bridge across the wadi

Wadi 

Water level marker in the wadi

Wadi


Fort Ruins


Shop Fronts


Makkah supermarket where we did our grocery shopping in Ibri

Makkah supermarket interior

Colorful delivery truck

Indian coffee shop/restaurant we frequented

Textile shop - It was midday so the shop was closed. 
Shops open between 9 and noon, closes for a siesta and then reopen around 4 pm when it is a bit cooler

Sweet shop - Omani's love sugar!


Stationery storefront at night


Visit to the perfume store


Ansu in the perfume shop - Ibri

Ansu sampling the product


Omani lady assisting Ansu


Omani lady gave us a whole demonstration


Ibri shops


Omani shops - Ibri


Turkish restaurant we frequented


Ice cream shop in Ibri - Filipino workers


Ibri scenery


Two Omani girls playing

Omani girl on her bike near ruins

Park near our home

Beautiful dead tree stump

Indian laborer on his bike to work

Typical Omani villa

Omani villa near Makkah supermarket

Out and about with our Nissan Tiida exploring Ibri

Villa on the road between Ibri and Nizwa

Ansu and I on walkabout in Ibri

Shopping & restaurant district

Shopping & restaurant district

Shopping & restaurant district

Shopping & restaurant district

Older neighborhood - Ibri

Farming district - Date plantations

Farming district - Date plantations

Farming district - Date plantations

Date plantation scenery

Camels for pets?

Colorful Oman entrance

The older section of Ibri

Indian laborer's bicycle in front of the laundry shop

Indian & Bangladeshi laborers taking a breather after a hard days work

These laborers will sleep here at the construction site. There are many human rights violations. There laborers earn about 90 OR per month, which is a fortune in terms of what they can earn at home. It is, however, a slave wage in Oman. They send half of their money back to their families and have to live in horrific circumstances in Oman.

The main road of Ibri

The main road of Ibri at sunset

Omani on a bicycle. The orange truck is a gas delivery truck....we used gas for our stove.
It cost about 5 OR to replace gas

Water truck filling up a water tank
Blue for water; Yellow for human waste collection; Orange for gas

Omani bus stop

The colorful gate of a school

Ibri mountain to views


One day in September of 2008, I explored an older section of Ibri. I climbed the hill and took these photos of the surrounding area

Ibri views

Ibri views

Ibri views

Ibri views

Ibri views

Rain???


It rained once in Ibri in my year there....and this is what happened. Everything flooded.
The College closed for the day, as people could not reach it....nice day off...Ansu made pancakes.

Flooding at college

Omani flag

After 11 months in Oman, I said goodbye. Little did I know that we would return for another 10 months during 2011/2012 to teach at the Rustag at the Rustaq COAS. 


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