English Teacher in Rustaq
October 2011 - August 2012
Oman? Where is that? This was the question posed to me by my fiance (who later became my wife) in 2008, as I told her, whilst working in Sudan, that I was moving to Oman, and that she should pay me a visit. The reality is that few people know about Oman, an uncovered jewel yet undiscovered by most, off the beaten track of world travel, but with the potential that once you have been there and lived there to be totally mesmerized by its beauty and wonderful people.
My fiance did come to visit in 2008, and barely 2 months later we flew back to South Africa to get married, as we struggled to legally get married in Oman. After a couple of weeks of arranging a wedding, having a wedding and a honeymoon we started off our married life in a sleepy desert town called Ibri. I completed my contract for that academic year, and even though was offered an extension, we decided it best to return to South Africa to have family support as a young married couple.
A couple of years later in 2011, after stints of unemployment here in South Africa, we got another opportunity to work in Oman when Hawthorne, the new contract holder for the colleges of Applied Sciences in Oman, offered us both teaching positions at the Rustaq college of Applied Sciences. Now Ibri felt like it was in the middle of nowhere, but Rustaq was even smaller in size and had fewer luxuries and amenities that make an expat's heart beat faster.
We arrived in late October 2011, about 4 weeks after the first batch teachers for that academic year. We spent our first night in Muscat in a very basic 3-star hotel, which did not inspire a lot of confidence in our new employer's generosity, and were driven the next day to Rustaq. All the single teachers at the Rustaq college, apart from those who have been there a while or married couples, stayed in an apartment block in downtown Rustaq. The bottom floor of the complex was an unofficial brothel with a Thai boy/girl as the main attraction.... unbeknownst to most of his/her Omani clientele who frequented the 'massage spa' as it was officially labeled. We were given an apartment on the 4th floor, and as there were no lifts, the stairs were the only way to access it. We spent that first night scrubbing everything as it was filthy. We were exhausted, but the 'health; mattress we were provided was so firm, that my limbs kept on going numb.
Our first work day was a lot better, the college had very nice offices with comfortable office furniture. My wife and I were fortunate enough to share an office with Sara, a lecturer from India who showed us much kindness and friendship over the next 10 months at the college. The office was so nice and our apartment so uncomfortable that we kept on staying later and later at the office dreading the time we had to go home. With high ceilings, white walls, cheap furniture, and no curtains to block out the sharp Gulf sun's brightness, it was not a place one wanted to relax. As an added insult, the badly designed plumbing system constantly allowed for a lingering stench, which no amount of detergent and Dettol could remove.
A bad bout of food poisoning also plagued us within the first month after we bought Turkey cold meat at Lulu's in Barka. We spent a whole weekend lying on single beds next to each other in the brightly lit apartment, a memorable nightmare. However, as time went by, we colored in our apartment with furnishings and decorations more to our liking. We also built up a support structure of locals and colleagues with whom we increasingly spent more time to numb one from the boredom that was called 'Rustaq'.
After 3 months of living in Rustaq, we could bear it no longer. About 40 km from Rustaq, near A'Musannah, a five-star hotel, called the Millennium stood ready for our patronage. Built for the 2010 Asia Beach games, it was and still is a gem in rural Oman. It had apartments to rent for 400 OMR per month, and we decided to do so with or without our employer's assistance. In order to sustainably continue our employment, we were willing to pay out of pocket. Initially, we got a studio apartment, but later due to the internet not working in our room, we were upgraded to a spacious one bedroom at no extra cost. We stayed in the hotel for 7 months until we finished our contract.
During this time we went through many ups and downs; my wife broke her ankle and I had to assist her with everything whilst at the same time preparing for my final exam for a research component for a BA (Hons) degree in Development Studies I was in the process of doing, but it made me stronger....I survived.....my wife survived.....and I passed the exam. After my exam, I spent many hours on the beach picking up seashells or just relaxing at the infinity pool. We also explored A'Musannah with our rented Toyota Yaris and took many incredible pics of rural Omani culture, such as fishing villages.
During our stay, we also took many trips to the capital of Oman, Muscat, especially Mutrah Corniche where we could watch the ships and Omani dhows on anchor and browse for souvenirs at the Mutrah Souq. We also made two trips to the UAE, once to Al Ain, where my brother just started a teaching position, and to Fujeirah and Dubai with Eva, a South African friend, and colleague.
Oman is not the most advanced place in the world, but it has a rustic authenticity unparalleled. It has fresh air, lots of sun and wide open spaces, and it's not uncommon to be noticed by locals and to be invited into their homes. The Omani's are soft gentle people with lots of hospitality. It is, in my opinion, the best country in the Gulf to settle down and build a life, as the Omani's are very accepting and inclusive. The pace here (excluding driving) is also much slower than in the neighboring UAE.
My pictures contain descriptions that will provide more info. Enjoy the journey!
Our first work day was a lot better, the college had very nice offices with comfortable office furniture. My wife and I were fortunate enough to share an office with Sara, a lecturer from India who showed us much kindness and friendship over the next 10 months at the college. The office was so nice and our apartment so uncomfortable that we kept on staying later and later at the office dreading the time we had to go home. With high ceilings, white walls, cheap furniture, and no curtains to block out the sharp Gulf sun's brightness, it was not a place one wanted to relax. As an added insult, the badly designed plumbing system constantly allowed for a lingering stench, which no amount of detergent and Dettol could remove.
A bad bout of food poisoning also plagued us within the first month after we bought Turkey cold meat at Lulu's in Barka. We spent a whole weekend lying on single beds next to each other in the brightly lit apartment, a memorable nightmare. However, as time went by, we colored in our apartment with furnishings and decorations more to our liking. We also built up a support structure of locals and colleagues with whom we increasingly spent more time to numb one from the boredom that was called 'Rustaq'.
After 3 months of living in Rustaq, we could bear it no longer. About 40 km from Rustaq, near A'Musannah, a five-star hotel, called the Millennium stood ready for our patronage. Built for the 2010 Asia Beach games, it was and still is a gem in rural Oman. It had apartments to rent for 400 OMR per month, and we decided to do so with or without our employer's assistance. In order to sustainably continue our employment, we were willing to pay out of pocket. Initially, we got a studio apartment, but later due to the internet not working in our room, we were upgraded to a spacious one bedroom at no extra cost. We stayed in the hotel for 7 months until we finished our contract.
During this time we went through many ups and downs; my wife broke her ankle and I had to assist her with everything whilst at the same time preparing for my final exam for a research component for a BA (Hons) degree in Development Studies I was in the process of doing, but it made me stronger....I survived.....my wife survived.....and I passed the exam. After my exam, I spent many hours on the beach picking up seashells or just relaxing at the infinity pool. We also explored A'Musannah with our rented Toyota Yaris and took many incredible pics of rural Omani culture, such as fishing villages.
During our stay, we also took many trips to the capital of Oman, Muscat, especially Mutrah Corniche where we could watch the ships and Omani dhows on anchor and browse for souvenirs at the Mutrah Souq. We also made two trips to the UAE, once to Al Ain, where my brother just started a teaching position, and to Fujeirah and Dubai with Eva, a South African friend, and colleague.
Oman is not the most advanced place in the world, but it has a rustic authenticity unparalleled. It has fresh air, lots of sun and wide open spaces, and it's not uncommon to be noticed by locals and to be invited into their homes. The Omani's are soft gentle people with lots of hospitality. It is, in my opinion, the best country in the Gulf to settle down and build a life, as the Omani's are very accepting and inclusive. The pace here (excluding driving) is also much slower than in the neighboring UAE.
My pictures contain descriptions that will provide more info. Enjoy the journey!
About Oman
Oman, officially the Sultanate of Oman, is an Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Yemen to the southwest, and shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan. The coast is formed by the Arabian Sea on the southeast and the Gulf of Oman on the northeast. The Madha and Musandam exclaves are surrounded by the UAE on their land borders, with the Strait of Hormuz (which it shares with Iran) and the Gulf of Oman forming Musandam's coastal boundaries.
From the late 17th century, the Omani Sultanate was a powerful empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for influence in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. At its peak in the 19th century, Omani influence or control extended across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Zanzibar (today part of Tanzania, also former capital). As its power declined in the 20th century, the sultanate came under the influence of the United Kingdom. Historically, Muscat was the principal trading port of the Persian Gulf region. Muscat was also among the most important trading ports of the Indian Ocean. Oman is an absolute monarchy. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has been the hereditary leader of the country since 1970. Sultan Qaboos is the longest-serving current ruler in the Middle East and sixth-longest current reigning monarch in the world.
Where is Oman?
Now join me on our journey......
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| My job description |
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| The Rustaq College of Applied Sciences we taught ESL at |
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| College scenery: My office, Teacher's building and some of the students |
Teaching ESL in Rustaq, Oman
About Rustaq
Al Rustaq (الرستاق) is a city in the South Al Batinah region, surrounded by the central Al Hajir mountain range and an abundance of date palm groves and Aflaj. The city came to the forefront of Omani history when Imam Nasser bin Murshid Al Ya’rubi started from here his conquest to unify Oman and repel the Portuguese from the country in the 17th century. Al Rustaq was also once the capital of Oman, and it has many attractions that should make it a much bigger tourist attraction! (Oman Tripper)
Read more
Where is Rustaq?
Working & living in Rustaq picture gallery
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| Rustaq scenery - Clockwise starting top right: The street in front of our first apartment building The commercial district Downtown Rustaq |
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| Rustaq scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Views from our apartment balcony A local clinic My wife Ansu exploring downtown Rustaq Omani street vendors |
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| View of our neighborhood - taken from our first apartment balcony in Rustaq |
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| One day I took my camera and climbed a nearby hill, where I was met with this scenery |
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| Omani villa and Rustaq mountains |
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| Rustaq scenery - Clockwise starting top left: The main road into Rustaq A roundabout with garden and flag Nature scenery near Rustaq Our apartment building In front of a Coffeeshop in the evening in downtown Rustaq |
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| Omani shopowner in Rustaq |
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| Rustaq scenery - Clockwise starting top left: The main road into Rustaq passing the college The Turkish Star restaurant which we frequented Sleepy Rustaq nestled in a valley The sign of a sports shop at night Nature scenery near Rustaq |
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| Rustaq "Harrods" - Al Shrooq hypermarket catered for most of our basic grocery needs |
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| Selfie - on a nature walk exploring the countryside |
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| After I conquered a hill near my apartment - The view of Rustaq from the top |
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| Ruins, Date plantations and mountains - The beauty of Rustaq |
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| Cool and tranquil date plantation scenery |
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| Nature scenery along the main road |
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| Nature scenery along the main road |
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| Rustaq scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Date plantation scenery Old Rustaq fort Shopfront - Old Rustaq Rustaq fort Shopfront - rural Oman |
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| Shopfront - Old Rustaq |
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| A neighborhood in Old Rustaq with date plantation |
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| Shopfronts - Old Rustaq |
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| Old Rustaq fort |
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| Omani hospitality |
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| Local friendships |
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| Ali and Son, our initial taxi driver before we rented a car |
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| Omani vendors selling their goods in downtown Rustaq |
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| Expat friends & colleagues |
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| Bubbly, the KFC manager in A'Musannah, which I frequented, especially in the time Ansu broke her ankle |
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| Friends |
Moving from Rustaq to A'Mussanah & living at the Millennium Resort Mussanah
About the Resort hotel:
Enjoy the best of lifestyle resort and leisure by crystal-blue waters at Millennium Resort Mussanah. Experience perfect relaxation, with panoramic views over the Hajar Mountains and the Gulf of Oman. The world-class outdoor sporting facilities in our resort include an 18-hole mini-golf course, tennis courts, and five swimming pools, one of which is exclusive to families, zipline, floating water park “Aqua Fun”, PADI dive center. Our resort’s private 54-berth marina allows for water sport, sailing, snorkeling and yacht charter options, as well as customized holiday packages and excursions.
Our exceptional beach resort in Musssanah has been the recipient of multiple awards from 2015 MENA Travel, 2017 & 2018 World Luxury Hotels, 2017 Luxury Travel Guide, 2018 Hotel Middle East Award, 2018 Arabian Travel Awards, 2018 Haute Grandeur Awards and TripAdvisor. With 308 spacious accommodations, a state-of-the-art Health & Fitness Club and Zayna Spa offering relaxation treatments from around the world, couples, families and business guests will be sure of a restful stay at our luxury resort in Oman. Kids and adults will love the onsite diving and sailing school, zip-line and aqua fun. Come stay, live and play in the lap of luxury. For those who wish to explore the local area, Rustaq & Nakhal Fort, the Harjar Mountains, Mussanah Fort, and Damaniyat Island are all nearby, as well as a local fish market (Millennium hotels: online)
Where is Al-Mussanah?
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| Map of Oman with Al Mussanah's location indicated |
Living at the Millennium Beach resort
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| Millennium hotel scenery - Clockwise starting top right: Millennium hotel pool at dusk The hotel marina With one of the other 'guests' |
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| Millennium hotel scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Millennium Hotel gardens and palm trees at dusk View of marina from our balcony Wall art advertisement of the coming world beach handball tournament Sunrise - taken from our hotel balcony One of the sailboats in the marina |
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| Millennium hotel scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Dusk view of the marina from our hotel balcony View of hotel beach area from our hotel balcony Back main entrance of the main hotel at night Dusk view hotel beach area from porch restaurant Sunset view of beach area near pools |
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| Millennium hotel scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Apartment section of hotel & surrounding grounds My brother posing on a speedboat at the marina One of our favorite desserts: Chocolate brownie with ice cream Sailboat sailing around in the marina Marina view & Bougainvillea flower. I was flying a kite that day. |
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| My favorite pic I took at the Millennium - Sunset through the grass |
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| Millennium hotel scenery - Clockwise starting top left: The porch area restaurant overlooking the beach and marina area The marina with boats and ships on anchor Date palm tree grove on the hotel grounds The pool area at dusk The watchtower brightly lit at night |
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| The view of marina and beach from our hotel balcony |
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| Millennium hotel pool at dusk |
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| Pool area during sunset |
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| Pool - beach - sea |
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| Entrance to hotel apartments from Marina |
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| Millennium hotel scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Sunset grass Millennium Corniche at night My mom came to visit - at the beach My brother and I at the marina, about to take a speed boat ride Sailing boats at the hotel marina |
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| Date palms on the Millennium hotel grounds during sunset |
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| Sailing boats at the hotel marina |
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| One going out, one coming in..... |
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| Breakfast at one of the Millennium restaurants |
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| Millennium hotel corniche |
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| Millennium hotel entrance at night |
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| Millennium hotel gardens |
Local trips we made by car near the Millenium hotel in the Al-Mussanah area
About Al-Mussanah
Al-Musannah or Al-Mussanah (Arabic: المصنعة) is a town in the Al Batinah Region of northern Oman. As of 2010 it had a population of 6,291.[Wikipedia]
What does the Lonely planet say about Al Mussanah?
"Mussanah is the home of Oman's navy, docked at Wudum naval base. Quite fittingly, then, the town has also earned itself a name as the destination of choice for nautical adventures. Indeed, the Millennium Resort that punctuates the flat shoreline of Mussanah, at the edge of the shrubby Batinah Plain, was initially established to accommodate athletes during the second Asian Beach Games of 2010, and that event left behind a legacy of sailing, kayaking, and swimming that has since been supplemented with a range of other water sports, including a water park".
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| Rural Oman scenery - Clockwise starting top right: Fishing boats on the beach near the Millennium Beach Resort Goats roaming among ruins - Rural Rustaq Agricultural land - Al Mussanah |
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| Al Mussanah scenery - Clockwise starting top left: The main road between Muscat and Sohar The restaurant we frequented to buy BBQ totisserie chickens Omani Fruit juice shop Omani gate Yes, there's even a Pizza Hut |
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| Our little White Yaris, our mode of transportation |
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| The little coffee shop we frequented to buy whole BBQ rotisserie chickens for 1.5 OMR |
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| Al Mussanah scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Painted ceiling of the entrance to the Makkah supermarket we bought groceries from Fruit and veg section of Makkah supermarket Bubbly, the KFC manager, whom I befriended The waiter at the Turkish restaurant we bought fruit juice from The rotisserie BBQ chicken we often ate |
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| A'Musannah scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Omani locals walking on the beach late afternoon near the Millennium hotel Local children curious about us Omani women in traditional Omani relaxation attire Fishing boats of the nearby fishing village |
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| Omani fishing boat |
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| Omani fisherman repairing nets |
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| A' Mussanah - Omani agriculture |
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| Rural Oman scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Agricultural land in Al Mussanah Rustaq fort walls Doing shopping after work in a local fruit and veg store Bangladeshi labourer working the fields, rural Rustaq Rural shop fronts - Old Rustaq |
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| Dates....almost ready |
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| A'Musannah - Camel man. My favorite pic of Oman |
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| A'Musannah - Camel man |
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| Oman - Clockwise starting top left: Goats - Neighbouring fishing village Sidewalk goods for sale - Ibri Turkish dance performance - at a fort near Barka Local deep grilled sweet delicacies - Al Suwayq Window - rural Rustaq |
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| Oman - Clockwise starting top left: Road scenery - on the way to Sohar The road between Rustaq and Al Musssanah Telephone pole - The road between Rustaq and Al Musssanah Farm fence near the Muladdah roundabout - Al Mussanah Road signs as you enter Sohar |
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| Baby camels taking a stroll |
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| Taking a camel for a walk, Omani style |
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| Oman scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Camel man taking his camels for a walk - near Muladdah roundabout, Mussanah Baby camels - The road between Rustaq and Al Musssanah Traffic on the road between Rustaq and Al Musssanah Fuell options - petrol is very cheap in Oman, about 5 OMR to fill up your car Road scenery between barka and Rustaq |
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| Took many pics along the way |
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| Al Mussanah & Rustaq scenery - Clockwise starting top left: The road between Rustaq and Al Musssanah - as you near Rustaq Rustaq scenery Near the Muladdah roundabout Higher precipitation in Rustaq area means for more grass than in other places Mom and junior.....I think they are posing for the camera |
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| Nature scenery near Rustaq |
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| Many heavy vehicles on the road |
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| Nature scenery as you near the Muladdah roundabout in Al Mussanah |
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| Many of these....and many camels can be seen along the way |
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| Camel exploration....baby camels going on a walkabout? |
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| Mom and junior posing for the camera |
Trips to Muscat
Where is Muscat?
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| Muscat's location |
About Muscat
Muscat, Oman’s port capital, sits on the Gulf of Oman surrounded by mountains and desert. With a history dating back to antiquity, it mixes high-rises and upscale shopping malls with clifftop landmarks such as the 16th-century Portuguese forts, Al Jalali and Mirani, looming over Muscat Harbor.
What does Lone planet say about Muscat?
"Scenically wedged between mountains and ocean, with old forts and excellent museums, an opera house and flower-filled parks, the gentle city of Muscat is a delight to visit. Its name means ‘safe anchorage’, and the sea plays an important role in city life to this day, sustaining the fishing industry and providing opportunities for visitors to swim from sandy beaches or dive with turtles in nearby lagoons" (Lonely Planet).
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| Mutrah (Muscat) scenery - Clockwise starting top right: At Mutrah corniche Omani Dhows Sultan Qaboos yacht on anchor |
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| Mutrah (Muscat) scenery - Clockwise starting top left: Ansu with my mom and brother who came to visit at Mutrah Sultan Qaboos yacht on anchor at Mutrah The South African embassy in Muscat, where I wrote my final exam Omani Dhow - Mutrah Ansu with a soft toy camel at Mutrah souq |
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| Muscat scenery - Clockwise starting top left: The interior of the Intercontinental hotel in Muscat where we ate cheesecake Old vs new: Mutrah harbour City Centre mall, Seeb, Muscat Mutrah scenery Mutrah souq articles on display |
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| At Mutrah Corniche |
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| Coffeeshops - Mutrah, Muscat |
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| Mutrah, Muscat - a Luxury car parked next to the corniche with Sultan Qaboos yacht on anchor in the background |
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| Mutrah (Muscat) scenery - Traditional Omani Dhows on anchor |
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| Mutrah (Muscat) scenery - Old versus Modern: Omani dhow against the backdrop of, and dwarfed by a modern freighter |
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| Mutrah (Muscat) scenery - Omani Dhow |
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| Mutrah (Muscat) scenery - Omani Dhow |
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| Mutrah Souq |
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| Intercontinental hotel in Muscat which serves the best cheesecake in Oman |
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| Millennium friends |
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| Enjoying a speed boat ride with my brother, when he came over from the UAE to visit |
Read also about my trips to the UAE here...
